Sunday, July 6, 2008

Dear America,

When we arrived in Dar 3+ weeks ago I was amazed at how close to America I felt. Physically I was less than a days journey to D.C, and emotionally I was fairly comfotable, had internet access, and a large group of good spirited Americans to speak English with. Now, 300 km into Africa, 3 + weeks into my homestay, and weeks without foreign communication, I feel worlds away from America--though a day rarely passes when I manage not to think about family, friends, and ice cold diet coke.

It's 9p.m. on Saturday, July 5th. I've been promised a ride to town tomorow morning (about a 30 minute drive)and so I'm staying up past my usual bedtime of 8:30p.m. to prepare this blog, just incase the internet actually works. I'm writing by the light of my lantern, straining through my mosquito net. Lead mixes with drips of sweat on the paper, it's a hot night in Kimamba. A cement wall seperates me from the main hall where my family is blaring the radio which they've been charging on the generator all day-rhiana is coming through loud and clear. There are 7 members of my host family, including myself. 'Family' has a different meaning in Tanzania--it includes most extended branches of the family tree, which tend to grow large in the rich african soil. There are 6 women in my family, and one man. After school each day I return to my nyumbani (home) to the generous company of my host mother, sisters, neices, and relatives I'm not sure we even have a name for in America. They teach me to cook, speak, and dance--we all have a good time trying to get me to shake my "wo wo wo" (badonk adonk) like a Tanzanian, progress on all fronts is slow but steady. Laughter transcends the language barrier and we often explode in an eruption of laughter, heartier than I have ever known.

Our house is small, 4 modest bedrooms, 1 of which is rented out to a mother and her daughter, 1 for my host parents, 1 for me, and the rest snuggle in the other room. Tanzania is a communal society (as opposed to the American idividual based society) and there is no problem sharing space, and work. There is always plenty of chores to do, and plenty of food to each at the end of each long day.

Each morning I awake to the rooster, take my bucket bath, and am out the door to school as soon as I can chug my morning mug of chai. Greetings are important in Tanzania, and it takes me 10-20 extra minutes in the morning to complete all of my greetings on the way to school (which is less than a 1/4 mi. away). Greetings can be exhausting, especially after school (around 5) when children swarm around me, fighting to hold my hand. Last week Brianna (the other peace corps trainee in town) and I were having a Fanta at the local duka (window front store), within 3 minutes we were surrounded by 20 children who remained and stared at us for 15 minutes, untill we began to do head shoulders knees and toes-always a crowd pleaser. The town is fairly large (pop. 4000). My house is located in the center of it, while most trainees (there are 7 of us in my area) are located in the surrounding farm land. We all meet at school to learn swahili and technical skills. So far we've learned tree and plant idenitifications, garden and compost making, and an assortment of other Africa tricks to manipulate the land for human consumption (the bee keeping session is right around the corner--as is the mid-training safari trip). The language training is intense, but effective. I feel confident in getting myself around town, and communicating with just about everyone who wants to stop and chat up the muzungo (whitey--not a very nice term). There is still a lot of hand gesturing involved in commuication, but hopefully by Aug. 20th (volunteer swear in day) I will be ready to be shipped out by myself to a village in the country side.

There is alot to learn, and my days here are full--it can be hard to get a moment to myself, and even harder to get time on a computer in town (when we make it there). Thank you for everyone who has emailed, it is so good to see kind words from you all --even though it's been just under a month there have been some really low times, and some high times. In general I am really enjoying the experience of training, however exhausting it is. The hospitality, and accomodations my host family has provided me with, and especially there love and patience have far exceded my expectations--I am being well looked after.

I have so much to share with you all--the amazing women in my family, my crazy parents who brew their own pombe (local alcohol) and run a drinking club, Peter Massai my new best friend from the Massai tribe--every day really brings a new adventure. Hopefully after training I will have better internet access and more oppertunity to share it all with you.

Snail mail has been the most practical means of writing. If you want to be my penpal shoot me a letter (it only takes about 1-2 weeks for mail/packages to arrive here from the states) and I'll send one back. My address is:

Peace Corps Office
PST: Gretchen Scheibel
P.O Box 9123
Dar es Salaam, Tanzania

If you send a package please write "education materials" and draw a bunch of crosses on it (less likely to be thoroughly searched at customs). If you send chocolate I will be your best friend.

I hope everything is good on the home front. I often imagine you all basking in the warm july sun, bbqing, and sipping cold beverages. Please have a twisted tea and think of me.

Lots of love from Tanzania,
G

1 comments:

Anna Spornitz said...

greta, this message almost made me cry. I'm so happy for you and your amazing growth. I can tell already your life has changed!!! I can't wait to talk to you. As soon as I get the timing correctly (you awake, me awake) I will call you. I'm sending you so much love from sammamish and soon wyoming!! and I'll try shape shifting some chocolate your way :) ahah ah